Now Trending: Pleats Come In

by Rhonda Sargent Chambers
on Feb 19, 2014 in s/s 2014

Continuing our S/S 2014 Trending Series, today’s spring wardrobe forecast predicts a high fashion treatment for a signature schoolgirl look. Designer runways from New York and London to Paris and Milan showed pleats a-plenty, with innovative tucking and ruched fabrics. This resurgance in-crease-es upon some 2,000-plus years of rich history.

In plain terms, a pleat is a fold in fabric back upon itself, as in a garment or upholstered item of furniture. Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. They may be decorative or functional, as when employed to fit or size cloth to an underlying form. In ancient Greece, women washed their garments in the Tiber River, then twisted them to dry, creating fresh unpressed pleats.

Greek linen-hemp pleating, c. 400 BC

Over subsequent centuries, many distinct types of pleats were developed and named: Cartridge, Fluted, Box, Accordion, Honeycomb, Knife, Broom, Plissé and Watteau, among others. Our favorite pleats are named for Mariano Fortuny, the legendary early 20th Century Spanish couturier.

One can’t help but note the similarity and figure-enhancing elegance embodied in both Greek pleating and Fortuny gowns. Fast forward a few short decades, and an iconic Hollywood image took the familiar folds in a fun, sexy new direction.

Fortuny Tea Gown, 1917 and Marilyn Monroe in The Seven Year Itch, 1955

To be sure, this trend is not just a fad. It can also be quite flattering, contrary to common misconception. So as not to look like a frump or a school marm, stay away from patterns that add fullness. Better yet, select metallic or leather-like fabrics. Below, a little runway inspiration to kick off a season of pleats, plus three buy-it-now finds.

Pleats On The Runway